The best course of action to take sometimes isn't clear until you've listed and considered your alternatives. The following paragraphs should help clue you in to what the experts think is significant.
Bangkok, the city of angles or 'Krungthep',was established in 1782 by King Rama I. The very charm of the city, indeed the whole country, is its antiquity combined with rapid modernisation. Amidst sealed skyscrapers nestle the old pagodas of the many 'wats' or temples. Roadside Buddhas ,exist and profilerate, ensuring handy outless for joss-sticks and flower offerings, food and shawls. The more the offerings, the more fervent the prayer of the devotee...
Roadside stalls and shops jostle for space with these Buddhas along with food vendors-on pushcarts, on little stools, on stands, in baskets carried on a pole across the shoulders. Fruit and flower sellers stand at every corner.
Aromatic cooked rice in leaf or plastic packets are sold even in mini supermarkets, with the smell an intergral part of the atmosphere of Thailand. Seafood predominates-with a rich chilli flavour. Indians and vegetarians need not fear for there are plenty of Indian hotels in the city. In fact an Indian would instantly feel at home, wandering around the crowded city-the people are friendly and one even finds roadside cobblers here, unlike the posh Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. And best of all Indians are glorified as tourists here for they do a lot of shopping and the Thai economy practically rests on tourism.
A honeymoon couple would be advised to go on a pre-booked package with a reputed hotel. Bel Aire Princes is a fabulous hotel, expensive and luxurious. It also serves small variety of Indian food in the evenings. The Indra Regent area has many Indian enteries too. The package ensures a visit to the Wat Arun, the Golden Buddha temple, the Reclining Buddha, the Emerald Buddha and the City Palace. Most of these sights will be familiar to the Indian movie goer, for Bangkok has become a popular movie location.
City tours include a visit to the rose garden, the gem cutting centre and a silk factory.
Thailand is famous for its gemstones and silver jewellery, both certain to bring stars to a bride's eyes. Chinatown is a lovely area to walk through, filled with flowers and produce. Food is a delight here.
Truthfully, the only difference between you and Honeymoon experts is time. If you'll invest a little more time in reading, you'll be that much nearer to expert status when it comes to Honeymoon.
Clothes are cheap as labour costs are low. Thai'mumdee' silk or tye and dyed silk is a specially, a must-buy for most women. As for readymades, Prathunam Market is a near paradise, a whole busy enclave on Ratchprarop Road. Here are located fashion houses like Armani and Versace. But never mind them, right below their regal noses one can purchase fine imitations, complete with logo, in the open sir stall of Prathunam. The garments are churned out in the closed markets behind with sewing machines busy round the clock. 'How many do you want?' asks the friendly shopkeeper when I ask the price of a Boss Shirt. he laughs when I ask for just two, more used to Indians buying in bulk.
A walk along Soi 3,4 and 5 leads to Akbar, and Indian restaurant, serving good Mughlai food. Along the Sois are open air stalls selling handicrafts, clothes, cloisonne, wood masks, blue pottery, the unique metal turquoise painted Thai musician fingurines, watches-all fake, toys,VCDs. All remain open till 11p.m.
Patpong and silom-these are the famous night bazaars of Bangkok, where life begins only after 10p.m. Food-one can eat a variety of Thai food on the pavements or go into the Western food joints, pubs and bars here. Massage parlours have women standing outside, enticing unwary tourists. Heading out of the city is an option to go to Pattaya, a 2hour trip to a beach town. Pattaya is a strange place with a sightly seedy promenade where Indians are not advised to venture after dark. The cabaret show and a trip to Coral Island so it is only worth it if you are into snorkeling and water scooters. Perhaps a place best avoided by the romantic couple. For those with a sun and water fixation, islands like Krabi, Kochi Samui, Phuket, etc. are geared to be ideal resorts. Rafting and canoeing, other than just sunbathing, are sufficient thrills here-with the knowledge that Leonardo di Caprio sunbathed here as an added attraction!
A trip to Kanchanaburi, about 128 kms away, is good for nature lovers and would ensure a less crowded and more romantic scenario. The Death Railway and the Bridge on the River Kwai are, of course, not to be missed here. But the best part of a visit to Thailand is a trip to the Floating Market-about 2 hours away in Ratchaburi. Tours start early in the morning, in order to reach there well before the boats come out. One is put in the water in a long launch for a leisurely ride in the canals for about 1 1/2 hours. Old homes jut above the banks, with daily chores and baths conducted in the streams.
And then suddenly, at a turning, one sees scores of long open boats coming at you, each with one person at the helm, mostly women. And the boats are piled high with produce-hot food, fresh vegetables, etc. Breakfast is served like never before! The boat comes along and jars alongside, the old women boats sturdy enough to ram into each other. business is conducted over the water, and selling and buying has never been so charming. After the ride, the banks lined with handicraft shops entice one to buy cheap blue pottery, pewter and clothes. Romantic keepsakes will not make a deephole in the pocket here.
If going about the city on one's own-the MRT or the lovely little tuktuk (autolike vehicle) driven merrily with scant regard for rules are safe methods of transport and cheap. In the throng of Bangkok's traffic which turns to five packed lanes on an expressway, the tuktuk is sure to make rapid headway. And for that shopping stroll, the only way to cross the road is to do as the Thais do- hold up you hand to stop the flow and sash across.
With so many spots so soaked in romance,Bangkok is a great honeymoon destination-with a little extra honey making further lovely spots within one's reach. Best to avoid the place in April though, when the heat touches a sizzling 42, fizzling out romance!
By: wirat
Saturday, June 30, 2007
Honeymoon Thailand
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Top 5 Cities Thailand
In my capacity as the UK Director of Operations for One World Tours Limited, one of my jobs is to ensure every client has the best tour possible, so here are my top 5 suggestions for cities to visit in Thailand during your holiday.
1.Bangkok is a fascinating city which has managed to keep it’s ancient eastern traditions whilst embracing the modern progression of the western world. Bangkok is the capital city of Thailand and offers a host of experiences which include floating markets, modern bars, top of the range shopping, gastronomical delights and ancient temples steeped in the city’s history.
The Chao Phraya River separates the city and has a series of canals. The new ‘Sky train’ railway is something which should be experienced whilst in the city should you fancy avoiding the bustling traffic.
One of the largest floating markets is on the outskirts of Bangkok and you’ll greeted by the aromatic smells and the age old tradition of the locals and their way of making a living along the busy canals.
There is an array of beautiful and ancient buildings not to be missed whilst in Thailand. Although I did not personally experience all of the nightlife, it was made obvious to me that all of my entertainment needs would be taken care of by all well informed taxi drivers wishing to proudly show off their culture.
2. Phuket is the biggest island attraction that Thailand has to offer. It is the perfect place to retreat to and enjoy a tropical paradise. Although the west coast of the island was almost destroyed by the tsunami of 2004, there is very little evidence remaining to show that it occurred.
Not to be missed are:Old Phuket Town. Chinese immigrants from the 19th century, who were lured in the past by the tin mines, left behind them a host of amazing Sino-Portuguese mansions along Dibu and Thalang roads.
Thai Boxing. A personal favourite of mine, this national sport is violent and very fast paced. For regular matches the Saphan Him Stadium in Phuket City is the place to be.
3.Krabi. Krabi Province is in the middle southern part of Thailand. It is situated in the aquamarine water of the Andaman Sea. It is one of the most stunning places in all of Thailand.
Krabi Town is situated near the mouth of the Krabi River.
The Mangrove forest is something to experience and is a must for avid bird watchers. Krabi Resort is set among a curtain of palm trees on the Ao-PhraNang beach. This is a delightful place to be if you are looking to soak up the natural beauty that surrounds you.4. Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is a city full of traditional heritage that shares its secrets with all who wish to discover them. It is a city with stunning natural beauty. It is amazing to see plants that we have to protect from the frost, growing in their scores, naturally along the roadside.
The people of Chiang Mai are a wonder in themselves with exceptional handicraft skills producing magical souvenirs for the endless throng of visitors. Chiang Mai houses the Inthanon Mountain, standing 8,448 feet above sea level making it the highest mountain Thailand.
5.Sukhothai. When visiting Sukhothai the main attractions for the area are Phra Mae Ya Shirne which is located in the Muang District. You will see a long haired figure made of stone that resembles an ancient queen. There is also a museum and National park as well as monuments of great interest inside the city walls.
By: Stuart Cheese
www.articledashboard.com
Homestays vs. Hotels
Homestays and Villas vs. Hotels
More and more people today seek fulfilling holidays at cheaper rates. The days of booking holidays at a local travel agent and disappearing on a package tour are dwindling, as vacationers turn to the internet to seek alternatives.
Renting a private house is becoming more and more common as visitors seek authenticity, privacy, independence, and originality whilst on holiday. And if such a stay also offers the possibility of direct interaction with the locals and costs less than a hotel stay, the attractions are manifold.
In Thailand,more and more properties are now available for direct rent from their owners on a daily or weekly basis. Thailand’s real estate boom has helped develop the number of villas and holiday homes available. It is in general a pity that these properties still tend to be huddled together in the mass tourism markets of Pattaya, Phuket, and Koh Samui, which somewhat defeats the original attractions of an independent holiday home.
However, looking more closely, it is not difficult to narrow down one’s search and to locate private properties for rent at highly attractive rates in original destinations. And in accordance with the Thais’ legendary hospitality, these villas are even occasionally rented out more as if friends – rather than paying guests - were being accommodated: meals are cooked for you, transport arranged, and invitations made to local ceremonies or festivals. In short, the Thais have realized that, whilst some guests may prefer privacy, others seek a genuine interaction at the local level with the country’s inhabitants, as they seek a memorable local experience instead of a manufactured stay.
Our exploration of Thailand’s holiday home rentals led us to several very different properties, and clearly, whilst the supply is not huge, the attractions of these homes, the hospitality of the Thais, the zing of the delicious food and the promise of sun all make these properties a marvelous holiday alternative.
We particularly enjoyed our stay at “Gecko Villa”. From the outset, their comprehensive website (http://www.geckovilla.com) gave full details of the property, with numerous photographs and an online availability checker. Our email reservation was responded to rapidly, and helpful suggestions made about getting to the destination.
Upon arrival we were met at the airport by the smiling owners and driven to the large house that was set in the middle of emerald rice paddies, sugar cane plantations and woodlands. The property was set on extensive grounds guaranteeing privacy by our own pool, and the bedrooms and facilities all lived up to or surpassed what we had seen described on the internet. The kitchen showed up our own kitchen at home, and the shower garden in the master bedroom was a delightful touch.
When we said we loved Thai food, we were delighted to be taken off around the grounds to pick our own herbs and spices – including strange plants that we had never considered using in the pot – before being shown how to make genuine Thai and Northeaster dishes. The owners seemed genuinely pleased to be able to impart their knowledge and love of food – and we were equally happy to have this cooking lesson provided at no cost!
The property was fully serviced and the rate we paid covered all our meals and even generous quantities of cool beer and fresh fruit juices. And as we were there in the mango season, we were encouraged to simply help ourselves to the fresh fruit straight from the trees…
It was rare to find a house deep in the Thai countryside, and truly off the beaten tourist track, that offered every comfort for a relaxing stay in the real Thailand. The Visitors’ Book was full of glowing comments and the many repeat guests bore testimony to the visitors’ enjoyment of their stays, not only because of the property itself but because of the genuine welcome they received.
Tips on booking holiday homes:
• Try to book directly with the property site. Searches tend to list global villa rental sites that generally take a commission on your stay, making it more expensive, and in some cases try to prevent you from contacting the owners directly.
• Look for an individual property rather than a house in a villa development. The latter are often managed by hotel groups and simply glorified hotel rooms – at hotel rates!
• Travel in the off season, but book early. Better rates can generally be found for travel out of the tourist seasons, but do make sure you book ahead, as when a standalone villa is booked, it is booked!
• Make sure the property you choose has a telephone and address listed.
• Travel somewhere new! Much of the fun of your own holiday house is the way it can take you out of the tourist centres to enjoy a more authentic holiday.
by: Simon Hantly
Monday, June 25, 2007
Rivers Of Thailand
Wang River is another river which flows in northern Thailand and this is 335 miles long. It originates from Ping River.
The longest river in Thailand is the Chi River which is 765 km but the water flow is very low. It runs through the Yasothon province of Thailand.
Chao Phraya runs for 372 km from Bangkok to the Gulf of Thailand. It bifurcates into two in a place called Chainat. The main portion of the river, known as the Chin River, flows parallel to Chao Phraya and ends in the Gulf. It is called by many names. In Chainat, it is called Makhamthao river and when it passes through Suphanburi, it is called Suphan. It becomes Nakhon Chaisi river when it enters Nakhon Pathon and after that it is known as Tha Chin river when it reaches the mouth of Samut Sakhon. Many canals are diverted from Chin River and the water from the canals is used for irrigation.
Nonthaburi Uthai Thani, , Singburi, Nakhon Sawan, Ang Thong, Ayutthaya and Chainat Pathum Thani are the cities along the flowing river. Nakhon Sawan is the city where the two major rivers Nan and Ping meet. Ang Thong is an agricultural land and Chao Phraya and Noi River meet in this city.
By Pauline Go
Thailand's Cuisine
Some of the well known ingredients that are commonly used in Thai food are lemon grass and lemon juice, garlic, and chilies. Seasonings such as black pepper, ginger, tamarind, and coconut milk are used to add a touch of spice and flavor to the food.
Being the largest exporter of rice, the staple food of Thailand is none other than rice. They have this particular variety of rice, the jasmine variety and is known as Hom Mali rice in their local language. You would be amazed if you came to know that there is actually a rice gene bank in Thailand. An approximate range of 5000 varieties of rice is stored in this bank.
Some of the well known food of Thailand are fried rice served with non-vegetarian dish such as beef, chicken or shrimp, a delicious soup containing a blend of pork and vegetables, coconut custard, fried banana, rice noodles with meat and vegetables and so on. Coconut and tamarind based cuisine are mostly found in the southern region of Thailand.
The food list is actually endless and one can go on and on about the mouth-watering delicacies of Thailand.
Fruits From Thailand
It is said that Thailand is a real paradise for fruit lovers and one can find an incredible variety of fruits all over Thailand. Thailand is abundant in fruits and it serves as one of the most important revenue generators for the country. A great number of fruits can be easily found at the numerous fruit shops, supermarkets and market places. The fruits that are available here are much cheaper when compared to other countries. Sometimes fruit sellers end up offering tourists fruits to taste for free. This practice is more prevalent on beaches where the tourists spend most of their holidays.
Traditionally, the Thais finish a meal with fruits. Sweeter Thai desserts are kept for snacking in between meals. A Thai breakfast normally comprises of variety of fresh fruits and traditional sweets. Besides being delicious and healthy, eating fresh fruits after a Thai meal is sure way of putting off the burning sensation in the mouth after eating spicy Thai food.
In Thailand, fruits are generally sweet including those which are suppose to be sour. One of the best fruit producing places in Thailand is Phuket Island. It is noted for its pineapple. Pineapples grown here are famous throughout Thailand and are particularly sweet and crunchy. They are also a major export product. Fruits like Rambutan, Bananas, Papaya, Durian, Guava and Mangoes are also grown in Thailand. Recently, several temperate fruits like Apples, Strawberries and Peaches are being grown successfully in the mountain areas of Thailand. The farmers always concentrate on growing more fruits using new methods of cultivation. This ensures that Thailand never faces a shortage of fruits in any season of the year.
Sunday, June 24, 2007
How to get around Bangkok
To start off it is good to understand what kind of transport you can get in Bangkok.
There are numerous different types of public transport, but the usual visitor or resident uses only 7 of these: Meter Taxis, Tuk Tuks, buses, canal boats, river taxis, motorbikes, and Taxis (with no meter).
Lets begin with Tuk Tuks. Aren't they cute, those little three wheeled taxis, colorfully painted and featured so much on anything to do with Thailand.
They are very cute until you get stuck in the traffic, behind the number 36 bus at about 2 in the afternoon and suck down a multitude of fumes in 10 minutes than the average smoker does in a life time... you'll say to the kids, isn't this fun....while your kids bury their heads in their Dad's armpit because it smells fresh compared to the air around them.
Okay Try a Tuku Tuk once, don't go too far and then give them up as a bad idea. Out of Bangkok they're much more fun. Tuk Tuk drivers should be haggled with, the price fixed in advance and generally you'll always get ripped off, take a taxi.
Taxis (with 4 wheels) come in two flavours, metered and no meter, although a few non meters actually have a meter concealed behind a panel in the dash board below the radio.... Taxis are great, sit back in air conditioned luxury and watch the Smiths die of carbon monoxide poisoning in a Tuk Tuk. If the driver of a Taxi objects to use his meter then tell him to take a hike, get out, do not be suckered.
Check where you are standing, if it's outside a nice big hotel , then walk up the road a bit and wave down a taxi. Unlike the US or Europe taxi drivers have to pass NO TESTS to become a taxi driver, within a few days of being inb Bangkok you will know Bangkok better than many Taxi drivers.... again if the driver seems to not know where it is you are going, get out....one other thing, make sure you know where you are going and have a rough idea of the route, else a less honest cabby will take you o a tour of the backroads "the short cuts". If you're going a long way, take the toll way, it costs between 20 and 40 Baht, (you pay) and will save you hours of travel time.
Calling a taxi by phone costs ab extra 20 Baht, Taxis at the airport cost an extra 50 Baht. And yes there is a REGULATED taxi stand at the airport outside the main meeting zone. Don't be suckered by taxi and limo touts.
Oh yes then there are the taxis with no meter.... well if you want to use one feel free....it'll cost about the same as a Tuk Tuk but at least you'll get Air Con....possibly.
Buses, once upon a time there were red buses, blue buses, green buses and Air Con buses, then came micro buses and then came deregulation and now there are so many buses that I really don't know what they all are...anyway if you are going to use a bus GET A BUS MAP. Then always use Air Con buses unless where you are going is not on one of their routes or your on such a tight budget that 8 to 15 Baht per person may cause you to have to go without food.
Other buses vary from 3 Baht up to 20 Baht. Don't bother asking the conductor about where you want to get off, to them you are a lower lifeform (all passengers are) ask another passenger.
A word about getting on and off buses. Do it FAST, buses on occasions don't stop at the bus stop they "slow" in the middle of the road and let off a stream of potential roadkill in the middle of the traffic, okay I exagerate a little but when you get your stop make sure you are already near the door and can sprint for it.
Don't expect the people getting on to make way, that kind of common sense tends to fail people using the buses, their objective is to get on fast and get a seat before anyone else...which brings up seats.... don't be fooled into thinking that being a "gentleman" will get you thanks...oh no, you'll see pregnant ladies standing up while young school brats take up the seats, you'll see old ladies burdened by shopping standing while teen sweathearts hog the seats...it's a first come dog eat dog world on the buses and if you take one of the non air con buses you'll eventually see some poor person pass out....then they get a seat.
Motobikes. Yeah.... want to get somewhere fast, take a motorbike taxi, married with kids...get life insurance and a damn good helmet.
The majority of MB taxi drivers will make it their sole intent to scare you to death, to see if they can squeeze their bike through a gap that is obviously closing up faster than they are moving and to see how fast they can go on an open stretch of road...they have no fear (or sanity).... your life is in their hands and you'll soon wish it wasn't.
It is the law in Thailand that all bike riders MUST wear a crash helmet.... some of the helmets you see wouldn't project a toddler falling off a 3 wheeler.
Thai law says you have to wear a helmet, but as far as the law is concerned...it can be made out of paper.
if you intend to use MB Taxis a lot then get a helmet...I did, it saved my face when the inevitable eventually happened and I slide across the road after beeing side swipped by a pick up truck.
If you can avoid MB taxis, then do. If you are in Bangkok for long enough you may eventually get to learn which MB Taxi Teams (yes they work in teams) are safer than others (or luckier than others).
Check out the bikes they are driving, a scratched up wreck will be a good hint that the driver has kissed the tarmac a few times, a brand new bike , a green horn still waiting for his first brush with death.... if you're on a bike and the driver is driving like a nut, tell him to stop and get off.
I have to admit I have very little experience with boat transport in Bangkok, but from what I am told, if you can take a canal or river taxi, then do, they are fast, generally clean, less polution and of course there are less vehicles to hit. Prices vary depending on how far you are going.
In summary I would suggest that if you plan to travel in Bangkok that you :- get a map, take meter
by: Jonathan Semenick
Planning A Trip To Thailand?
If you want an exotic trip, why not choose Thailand? Though it might be costlier than heading to southern California or Miami, you’ll have memories (and photographs!) that will wow your friends and family for years to come. As you plan your priceless journey, just remember to keep a few factors in mind:
Thailand Visit Tip #1: Learn about Thai food When you get to Thailand, you’ll no doubt be trying a great deal of Asian cuisine. Thus, it would behoove you to try some of the more common Thai dishes before you set off on your journey. If you live near a large city, you no doubt have access to any number of Thai restaurants. When you go, ask the servers or proprietor(s) about authentic Thai fare. That way, you’ll be able to prepare your palate for your visit. If you’re not able to make it to a Thai eatery, you can always check out a book on Thai cooking from the local library (or purchase one in your Barnes and Noble or Borders bookseller.) This way, you can try your hand at creating some of the culinary delights you’ll be feasting on during your time in Thailand.
Thailand Visit Tip #2: Dress for the temperature and weather conditions Because the Internet affords you the opportunity to find out about weather anywhere in the world, make sure you jump online during the days before you leave for your visit to Thailand. That way, you’ll know exactly what to pack (and what not to wear). Nothing is worse than being in a country where you don’t know the language and are feeling physically uncomfortable because you’re dressed inappropriately.
Thailand Visit Tip #3: Go to your doctor Before traveling overseas, it’s best for you to get a full physical at your doctor. Why? First of all, you really should have an annual appointment, anyway. But secondly, you don’t want to have a health emergency when you’re overseas. Your physician may also prescribe a variety of shots or suggestions for healthy eating regimens while you’re in Thailand. Make sure you bring a notepad and jot down all his or her comments.
Thailand Visit Tip #4: Get your passport in advance Many people traveling to countries such as Thailand forget to order their passports until too late. In all the excitement, this important “to do” is entirely forgotten. Rather than waiting until the last minute, make sure that you get your passport immediately, because it can take some time to receive in the mail. In fact, you might even want to get your passport before you book your flights to and from Thailand, just to be on the safe side. (And your passport will last many years, so even if you have to put off your Thailand trip for a year or two, your passport will still be good.) By taking a few precautions, you can ensure that your time in Thailand will be well-spent and will result in a meaningful vacation that you’ll recall with fondness for the rest of your life.
by: Robert Michael
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Hotels In Pattaya
You have decided to visit Asia for your next vacation and have decided to go to Pattaya, Thailand. Your flight is booked but you are still looking for a hotel. But, how do you decide which hotel to stay at?Your decision should be based on what you plan to do while you are Pattaya.
Will you be spending most of your time sightseeing, shopping or enjoying the nightlife? Most likely you will be enjoying the nightlife and will want to be located in the heart of it.There are three main areas in Pattaya – North, South, and Central and all three have their plusses and minuses. Getting a hotel in any of the three will boil down to a personal preference.North Pattaya is in the Soi 2 area or even a little further North called Naklua. Most of the tourists here are from Europe and the nightlife is adequate but not spectacular. I rarely go to the Naklua area but I do enjoy the Soi 2 nightlife area.South Pattaya is very good and includes the area around the infamous Walking Street. There are many hotels available from Soi 13 to Walking Street and also along the side streets between 2nd Road and Walking Street. Many are small pubs with a handful of rooms above the bar.To me, Central Pattaya is where to stay. The location is perfect as I can walk or catch a baht bus to anywhere in a matter of minutes. Beach Road, 2nd Road or even down to Soi Buakhao are perfect locations as long as the hotel is between Central Road and Soi 13.Most of the hotels in Pattaya are in the 2 – 4 star range with the occasional 5 star (Marriott) but a 2 – 4 star in Pattaya is definitely a cut above similar hotels in the states.
I prefer the smaller, pub places that have a handful of rooms upstairs. Most are owned by a couple and really do their best to make your stay a great one.Do your research, and look for a discount Pattaya hotel, and enjoy your stay in the Land of Smiles. It won’t be hard to find your Asian hotel in Pattaya at all.
By: Lawrence Westfall
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Krabi - Ko Phi Phi
The stunning sea mountain scenery of Phang-nga Bay extends down to Krabi, reaching south into deeper, crystal clear waters. In contrast to the hushed, green-tinged mystery of the bay, here you will find fine snorkelling, diving and fishing.
Many argue that Krabi's beaches, backed by dense rain forest, are amongst the most beautiful in the world. One of Thailand's best kept secrets, Krabi is undergoing an awakening. First discovered by cruising yachtsmen and backpack travellers – and remaining sleepy for many years – it now hosts bungalow resorts, top international hotels and numerous restaurants. Yet the area retains the flavour traditionalists have always loved – for example, the fabulous beaches to the south of Ao Nang, tucked below towering rock walls, are still accessible by boat only.
South of Krabi, and east of Phuket you discover the Phi Phi Islands – one of the most beautiful island groups anywhere. Spectacular vertical cliffs rising from clear seas, beautiful lagoons enclosed by rock walls and idyllic tropical beaches have rightly made these islands amongst the most famous in the world.
In 1998, the southernmost of the two islands, Phi Phi Le, was chosen as the location for filming ‘The Beach', starring Leonardo Di Caprio.
Sleepy, exotically tropical and remote when you want it to be, Phi Phi can keep you as busy as youlike, too. Clustered around the main town – Ton Sai Bay –resorts, restaurants, pubs and shops jostle for position with strolling vacationers and bicycles. Phi Phi has no cars.
Facilities
KrabiKrabi Town: With provisioning of a similar standard to Phuket available, Krabi Town can be accessed from Phra Nang by longtail boat or dinghy, or by road from Ao Nang.
Ao Nang Beach: Ao Nang is important due to its access to the main road to Krabi Town. Rock walls prevent road access from beaches further south. Resorts, bungalows, shops and restaurants are found along the beachfront road. Telephone, transport, and all the usual amenities of a growing resort town are available.
Krabi airport is to the northwest of Krabi Town, about 40 minutes by road from Ao Nang. There are regular direct flights to Phuket, Bangkok and Singapore.
Ko Phi PhiTon Sai Bay on Phi Phi Don is the place for shopping, provisioning or transport to Phuket, Krabi or neighbouring islands. The village, with its restaurants, hotels and shops is concentrated on the narrow sand isthmus connecting the two lobes of Phi Phi Don, extending along the northeastern side of the bay for well over a kilometre. Most needs of visiting yachts can be catered to here.
Tourism Authority of Thailand.
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Scuba diving Thailand
Scuba diving is Thailand’s most popular water sport and the country boosts some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world – the water is clear, sea life plentiful, transport and accommodation readily available and instruction to a very high standard. Diving in Thailand is comparatively cheap, and once you have achieved your certification in Thailand, you can use it to go scuba-diving all over the world.
Diving is available at all times of the year, although visibility changes according to the season. In the Andaman Sea, the best time to dive is from October to April, and in the Gulf of Thailand from May to September. At recommended dive sites in Thailand the water is so clear that the under-water world is visible from the surface: whale sharks, manta rays, marlin, flying fish, dolphins and coral reefs.
All reputable dive shops are affiliated with PADI or other international dive bodies, and most hold courses in multiple languages. All over Thailand, you can expect modern amenities, international standard boats and professional facilities.
For group or family travelers, all good live aboard operations will take non-divers along at a substantially reduced fee. Friends and family can relax, swim, sunbathe, snorkel and still enjoy the food, trip, scenery and experience of sailing in some of the world’s most beautiful waters.
Underwater experience
Day 1 : Transfer from Phuket Airport to Chalong Bay. Board night boat from the bay to Similan islands.
Day 2 : Arrive Similan. Rest of the day at dive sites around island exploring the reefs of the Similan Archipelago and myriad colours exhibited by countless fish and corals. There are three dive spots scheduled, and one night dive.
Day 3 : Continue your diving odyssey at three locations. Three daytime dives are scheduled at Ko Bon island and Ko Tachai, home to manta rays, whale sharks and colourful coral. There is one dive at Surin Island.
Day 4 : Three dives scheduled at Richelieu Rock, playground of the whale shark.
Day 5 : Dive at three more Similan locations before taking the night boat to Phuket.
Andaman adventure
Day 1 : From Patong Beach, Phuket, sail overnight to the Similan Islands.
Day 2 – 3 : Wake up at a Similan dive site and after breakfast, explore the area. Surroundings Range from delicate sloping reefs to giant boulder drop-offs The variety of marine life here is exceptional, with diverse corals and an enormous huge range of fish. Set sail For the Myanmar Banks in the evening.
Day 4 – 5 : Two days are spent on the Myanmar Banks exploring marine life including many different varieties of shark The area is subject to strong currents and changing underwater visibility visibility so it is strictly for experienced dives.
Day 6 : Dive at Richelieu Rock and Ko Ta-chai. Return to Similan in the evening
Day 7 : The last full day of diving around Similan, visiting several important reefs such as Shark's fin and Elephant's Head. Evening departure for the return passage to Phuket.
Day 8 : Early morning arrival at Patong. Participating divers should be certificated, but there is plenty of action on these tours for non-divers and various entertainments on board the mother ship, plus the chance to explore ashore.
Divers' paradise
Day 1 : Arrive Samui and continue by boat to Ko Tao (Turtle Island). After lunch, enjoy swimming and snorkeling around this tiny island considered to be the best dive site in the Gulf. The marine ecology of Ko Tao is the habitat of several rare species, including spotted rays, giant trigger fish and the occa-sional and harmless whale shark.
Day 2 – 7 : Enjoy diving lessons offered by international-standard diving schools or discovering the beautiful under-water world with experienced divers.
Day 8 : Leave Ko Tao for Chumphon. City tour and visit to the many caves and beautiful beaches. Overnight in Chumpon.
Dive sites
ANDAMAN SEA : Dive sites are found off the coast of Phuket with prime spots such as Shark Point, Red Rock, Ko Yao, Ko Yai, and the twin islands of Ko Racha, extending to the Similan and Surin islands to the west, Krabi and Trang to the east.
GULF OF THAILAND : Sites are around Ko Samui, Ko Pha-ngan, Ko Tao, Ko Nang Yuan, Mu Ko Ang Thong Marine National Park, and Ko Chang in Trat Province near the Combodian border.
EAST COAST : On the east coast of the Gulf, Pattaya offers dive trips out to Ko Larn, Ko Sak, Ko Krok, Ko Rin, Ko Pai and Ko Marn Vichai. There are dozens of dive shops offering courses and tours to any level and in any language.
Misconceptions about learning
IT IS DANGEROUS.v Not true. All the recommended dive companies listed here are PADI certified and have well qualified, experienced staff. As long as divers follow instructions and are prepared, there is less danger than swimming in the sea.IT TAKES A LONG TIME TO LEARN AND IS EXPENSIVEv Not true. All PADI centres offer beginner’s courses in a swimming pool for a half or full day. Becoming PADI certified will take four days in Thailand. Anyone over eight years can do a “Bubble Blowers” course in a pool for free. A Discover Scuba Diving course will cost around 4,000 baht and take one day. A full Open Water PADI course will take four days and cost around 10,000 bahtIT’S DIFFICULT AND YOU HAVE TO BE VERY FIT.v Not true. Anyone over the age of 12 can do a PADI certified course. As long as they are in good medical condition and have no history of asthma, heart or breathing problems, a severe cold or problems with your ears, then they are ready to dive.Precautions & preparations
There are some precautions and preparations that should be taken before diving, whether you are experienced or a beginner.
- Never go diving too soon after or before flying. The change in atmospheric pressure can cause “The Bends” either underwater or in the air, so divers should always consult an instructor to time diving and training to flight schedules.
- Never dive after a heavy meal. The blood flows to the stomach to aid digestion and may cause cramp.
- Never consume alcohol before diving (including the night before). The underwater effect of alcohol is multiplied many times, leading to disorientation and lack of judgment.
- If a heavy smoker, cut down before beginning to dive.
- Always follow safety procedures as advised by the instructor.
- Never go diving alone.
- If a diver has experience but has not been diving for a while (six months or more), they should tell the instructor and ask for a quick refresher course on procedures, safety and practices.
- Look for PADI certified dive shops only. Ask around at the resort to see who is recommended. Don’t take the first option or the cheapest (necessarily).
- If sure to dive before leaving on a trip, access the official PADI site at Padi.com and look for PADI certified dive shops at the destination.
- Read as much as possible about the destination. If experienced, a diver should know about the best dive sites before they even get to a resort.
Friday, June 15, 2007
Full Moon Party
Thailand's equivalent of LA's Moontribe, processed with pills and prostitutes
Prostitutes, booze and music. Oh my! It must be a full moon.
So I'm dancing away at this club on the isle of Ko Samui to some admittedly terrible and cheesy eurotrance, but it's nothing several libations didn't distract me of. Soon, I found myself grooving with this really cute Thai girl. After a while, the house lights came up signaling the club's closure.
"Now I'll go back with you to your bungalow," she said out of nowhere.
"Okay!" I replied.
"...and you will pay me," she finished.
Oh no.
My own suggestions of no money being involved left her unconvinced and me alone. I'd like to say something clever like, "She didn't know what she was missing," but that probably isn't true. There was a whole lotta gropin' goin' on at the Green Mango that night.
Ah, Thailand...
Before I, ahem, got things warmed up in Thailand's south, my first stop was Bangkok's Tapas Room (www.tapas-cafe.com), a sweaty little house club appropriately nestled in Patpong- Bangkok's infamous sex district. Opportunities to hear quality house music while clubbing in Asia are rare. Fortunately, Emanuel Skinner, a San Francisco ex-pat and former roommate to Naked Music's Miguel Migs, is a capable man on the decks.
Skinner came to Asia looking for a little adventure. Unlike most travelers, he brought records simply hoping to get a little play and maybe some extra pocket money. With the Tapas Room, Skinner happily got more than he bargained for.
Hired on as resident DJ and promotions director, Skinner fostered the Tapas vibe as he saw fit. The result is west coast house, southeast Asian style. "No one knows there's house music in Bangkok," he says. "We want to put Bangkok on the map."
Effortlessly caressing between filtered disco, samba, tribal, Chicago cool and New York garage, there's little question of Skinner's skills. In San Fran, Skinner was but a number, one of hundreds of talented DJs scrabbling for a chance to play. In Bangkok, he's a hot commodity. He hopes to bring that same degree of distinction to his production work. House music from Thailand, he says, should pique peoples' interest.
Skinner is equally pleased to bring the city's clubbers a musical alternative to Thai MTV's pop saturation and psychedelic trance heard blaring from many nightspots. "Psy trance is the last music I'd want to hear if I was coming down," he says. "Too much of a head trip. I threw up at a buddy's place once because of it."
Now, it was time to head south. The night train to the port of Surrathani gave me an opportunity to catch up on my notes, recover from a sad hangover and rationalize eating a bug I bought from a street vendor-God, was I tanked. Like most things in Thailand, a train's sleeper car is pretty cheap and I recommend it. Having had the misfortune of taking the bus once, train or plane is definitely the way to go.
A train, a bus, a ferry and taxi ride later, I'm on the isle of Ko Samui for a meeting with Warren Burgart, the man behind www.thaisite.com. Burgart's Full Moon Party portion of the site has inadvertently become the voice of the parties. And Burgart, to his bemusement, is now regarded as an authority on the event. Or, rather...
"A Full Moon Party is not an event," he explains. "It's a happening. There are no controlling organizations, no Full Moon committees. Everybody knows, 'I'm going to the beach, I'm going to party.'" While there are many Full Moon fan sites on the net, Burgart's is the only one offering any sort of organized forum. However, being an "authority" has at times proven to be a double-edged sword.
"We get tons of requests from DJs and managers requesting auditions or bookings," he says. "It's an impossibility. There are always DJs showing up with records. Many times, they're left unhappy as they didn't get to play." That, however, doesn't mean the parties haven't attracted their share of talent; German techno giant Sven Väth played a happening this past February. But Burgart stresses, hoping to save hopefuls hassles, Väth made prior arrangements with bar owners and didn't just show up expecting to play.
Any other big DJs ever play a Full Moon Party? Burgart shrugs his shoulders. He's hardly an electronic aficionado. Like Skinner, Burgart left the states for Thailand looking for change. Having been in data processing for 30 years (Burgart is in his '50s), he decided a leave of absence was in order. "I rented a house for a year and had intentions of playing my guitar and learning a bit about the Internet," he says. However, only days after moving in, he and a newfound neighbor hatched plans for thaisite.com. Originally just snapping pics of the Full Moon parties for fun, the work has culminated in the largest, most visited and most updated Full Moon Party website.
What little information Burgart has about the parties' origins is vague. The parties began over 15 years ago, but who to credit with starting the craze is unclear. Equally difficult to ascertain are attendance figures. Burgart has fruitlessly tried counting portions of the beach during parties, but says it's impossible to get exact numbers. Typical estimates are between 4,000 to 8,000 people.
Saying goodbye to Burgart, I met up with a friend and we made our way to a ferry bound for Ko Pha-Ngan's Haad Rinn beach, home to the Full Moon Parties. Even with a couple days until the party, we arrived too late; the bungalows were booked solid. The dregs, far from the main beach, were despicably unkempt and exorbitant at 700 Baht a night-roughly $15 U.S. Very high by Thai standards for such sub-par accommodations.
We resigned ourselves to Mae Haad beach on the island's north tip. Had we been more on the ball, we might have gotten a place at Haad Rinn, though I'm told few of the bungalows accept reservations. Our bungalow complex eventually filled up with would-be-revelers that ran into the same predicament we did. A taxi from one end of the island to the other should only run you about 100 Baht, anyway.
Finally, the Full Moon! Giddy with anticipation, we set out onto the beach in the early evening. Last minute preparations were still underway. Thai boys pounded stakes into the ground to hold down lights and decorations. Older Thai women set up tables that would sell everything from sandwiches to pizza to fried chicken to more traditional Thai cuisine. Glow-in-the-dark paint artists awaited human canvasses. Happening or event, the Full Moon parties represent an obvious routine for the Thai residents. Burgart guesses most of their revenue is generated on or around the party and they coast on those earnings until the next one.
You may not have lived until you've had a bucket of Sang Tip whiskey, Coke and Red Bull on the beaches of Thailand. Maybe, but too many of them and you'll likely feel as though you've died the day after. If it's alcoholic, you'll find it. If it's narcotic, well, you can find that, too. But drugs are illegal in Thailand, and carry hefty fines and imprisonment. While some locals do sell drugs, more of them will be inclined to turn you in should they see a deal going down-something they receive rewards for. Like anything else, be careful, be smart and don't say you weren't warned.
Drunk, the truly international and inspirational event unfolded around me. An Aussie rules football club bellowed, hooted and whistled at girls as they passed. Israeli fire dancers twirled batons for onlookers. Sullen German men brandished fearful looking tattoos. Thai "ladyboys"-you'll know them when you see them-garnered stares and kisses from confused and inebriated foreigners. A sloshed Norwegian attempted to explain the intricacies of life to me. He lost his train of thought every other sentence, but he did remember to order us more beer. A couple of Canadian girls locked lips for my picture of them. Afterwards, they told me they weren't even gay. The Full Moon brings out the best in everyone, I suppose.
Audio warfare sees every bar blaring its own music, so you have to seek out those sweet spots on the beach between clubs where you're getting one consistent sound. While there was a lot of variety-techno, house, psy trance, trance and progressive-the biggest surprise was Drop In Bar, whose music was total shit. But of all the clubs, it had the biggest crowd.
Should you go, take a step back from the festivities on one the beach's rocky promontories or wade knee-deep in the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. The Full Moon Party is sheer spectacle. The beach looked fantastic at night, illuminated by Christmas lights, bon fires, glow sticks and madness. The warm night was overcast, but when the moon peeked through for the briefest of moments, the entire beach erupted in jubilation. Now that's magic.
by Yuri Wuensch 2007
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Shopping in Thailand
Retail therapy is a welcome addition to any culture, and the shopping options in Thailand give you more to celebrate than ever if you're looking to treat yourself!
From the innumerable street markets to the sleek boutiques and malls, there's a place for you no matter how you like to shop, bartering away with local stall holders or sitting down for coffee laden down with haute couture.There are many shopping experiences that are particular to Thailand, and that will make even making basic purchases all part of the adventure. Where else can you have a fitted suit, made to your own designs, whipped up at record speed and for a fraction of what you might pay elsewhere? And if your lust for designer labels outstretches your budget, then why not cheat a little in the markets of Patpong, where all manner of facsimiles compete for your attention?
No matter where you are in Thailand, there are simple rules to help you enjoy the best of what the country has to offer. Inside department stores, the prices are fixed, but in most other places, especially the markets, bargaining is expected. Go into the bartering with a sense of humour, patience and a smile, and you can enjoy a friendly battle of wills with the stallholder. You can usually expect from ten to forty percent off the price, depending on the shopkeeper and, of course, your own haggling skills. Be polite and friendly and you will come to love this very interactive shopping experience!
As well as Patpong, Bangkok has many famous shopping areas, from the browser's paradise of the Chatuchak Park Weekend Market to the Aladdin's Cave of the gemstones on the Silom-Mahesak-New Road. Silom-Surawong-Patpong is the commercial heart of the city. Outside the capital, there are further plentiful opportunities for stocking up on souvenirs. Famously, Chiang Mai remains the focus of a huge handicraft and fabrics trade, and people flock to pick up anything from traditional hilltribe clothing to fabulous silks, to lacquer accessories and tapestries.
Most towns will have some variation on the famous Thai night bazaar, with food, music and lively buying and selling all making for a memorable experience. Look out for local delicacies and specialties - where your adventure takes you, you'll find something to remember it by.
MUST DO:Chatuchak weekend market Bangkok; Patpong night market; Chiang Mai night market; Visit a tailor; MBK Department Store; Floating market.
Wat Pha Kaeo Temples
The temple is in the outer section of the Royal Enclosure west of the Grand Palace . It was built on the orders of King Rama I along with the Grand Palace and Rattanakosin Island , and is built as a temple in a Royal compound like Wat Sri Sanphet in Ayutthaya . It has no resident monks.
The Emerald Buddha (Phra Putta Maha Mani Ratana Patimakorn or Phra Kaeo Morakot): This is a Buddha image in the meditating position in the style of the Lanna school of the north, dating from the 15th century AD. King Rama I brought it from Vientiane , and it is considered to be the most important Buddha image in the country.
Model of Angkor Wat: King Rama IV had this built by Phra Samphopphai when Cambodia was under Siamese control. The model was recreated in plaster at the behest of King Rama V to celebrate the first centenary of the Royal city.
Prasat Phra Thepidon: This four-square prang originally called "Puttaprang Prasat" was built in the reign of King Rama IV. Inside are statues of Kings Rama I-King Rama VIII, to which the public pay their respects on Chakri Day, April 6, every year.
Mondop:This structure stands behind Prasat Phra Thepidon, and was built in the reign of King Rama I. Inside is a cabinet holding the Buddhist scriptures beautifully decorated in mother-of-pearl.
Balcony: This can be compared to the temple wall. The murals inside tell the Ramayana story in its entirety. On the columns of the balcony are stone inscriptions of the verses describing the murals.
Phra Sri Ratana Chedi: Built in the style of Wat Sri Sanphet in Ayutthaya , this chedi is to the west of the Monhop. Inside is a small chedi with relics of the Lord Buddha.
Phra Atsada Maha Chedi: This group of eight chedis stands in front of the temple. It was built in the reign of King Rama I and dedicated to the heavens. Six of the group are outside the balcony, two are inside. Each has its own name.
Yaksa Tavarnbal (Gate-keeping Giants): Six pairs of mythical ogres stand at each gate of the Balcony. These are the main Giants of the Ramayana.
Hor Phra Khanthan-rat: Standing in the estern corner of the balcony, this is where the Phra Puttakhanthan-rat figure is enshrined. It presides over the Royal rain-making ceremony and the ceremony of the first rice planting. Inside are paintings by the mural artist Khrua In Khong.
Hor Phra Ratcha Karamanusorn: Inside this structure are 34 Buddha images in various positions, built by command of King Rama III and dedicated the kings of Ayutthaya and Thonburi.
Hor Phra Ratcha Pongsanusorn: Built in the reign of King Rama IV, this is the location of the Buddha image of the reigning King of the Rattanakosin Era. Inside are murals of Royal chronicles of Ayutthaya by Khrua In Khong.
Hor Phra Nak: Situated behind the temple, this traditional Thai building roofed with glazed tiles contains the ashes of the Royal family.
Diving On Koh Tao In Thailand
by Andy Perrin
accommodation. Just beware that when you read the accommodation is free, it’s not really, because they will offer discounts if you stay somewhere else. In 2006 you will pay in the region of 10,000 bht for a PADI open water certificate, and this should include the new PADI training manual, proper professional instruction, rental equipment, boat dives etc. This may include insurance and basic accommodation, but shop around, and remember the methods of instruction may differ enormously. A few hints include avoiding shops that use swimming pools to teach you in. You’ll find it cold, boring, and unhygienic, bearing in mind this is a very popular diving island, and they will have literally hundreds of students . Choose one that will take you to a private beach so you will see fish and coral right away, it is a lot more interesting, and you will probably get more dives!!
It’s also a good idea to find a dive shop that has its own private pier, so you won’t have to climb over other boats at the pier, although you won’t be carrying your dive gear, that should be carried by a Dive Master Trainee. In addition you ought to ask how many students there will be in your group, because there should not be more than a small handful, if they tell you there will be more than ten then look elsewhere. You want personal tuition for something as important as this, and you want your course to be really enjoyable. If you are looking for specific dive shops, this list whilst by no means exhaustive, is at least a starting point.
1. Coral Grand . Located in a much quieter area than the other dive shops, at the far end of the beach, the hotel is more upmarket than most on the island although the 'free' rooms are still basic. Operates 2 dive boats plus a speed boat.
2. Divepoint . Located in Mae Haad on the waterfront. Divepoint has probably the nicest dive boat on the island, big enough that you won't have to carry your gear to and from it. PADI and SSI.
3. Easy Divers. Fantastic Dive Shop with really experienced instructors. Professional and fun with great accommodation. Based right in the heart of Ko Tao.
4. IDC Ko Tao. Instructor development courses (IDC's) run every month by English PADI Course Director Matt Bolton.
5. Phoenix Divers. Right on Sairee Beach, has good boats, new gear and multilingual often western staff.
6. Stingray Divers. Very modern dive resort overlooking Chalok Ban Khao Bay. Hope this information helps you to have great diving experience on Koh Tao.
In Thailand, Keeping...
In Thailand, Keeping the Festive in Festival
During Phi Ta Khon, residents of Loei Province, near Laos, wear masks and form a procession of spirits.
THE Thai festival calendar begins this week with the New Year soaking of Songkran, a nationwide water fight with roots in traditional Buddhist cleansing ceremonies. In recent years, the celebration has become more like St. Patrick's Day with water guns as Thai and farang (foreign) tourists guzzle alcohol and hose one another down in pursuit of what locals proudly call sanuk, or fun.
But if you can't make it for Songkran, there are other options. The year ahead, 2550 on the Thai calendar, is a candy store of festivals, colorful parades and celebrations that have, for the most part, stayed close to their roots, offering you the opportunity to steep yourself not just in Singha beer, but in local culture and history as well. Expressing core aspects of Thai-ness like Buddhism, animism and agriculture, these festivals and national holidays will expand your mind and up your sum total of sanuk.
On May 10 the annual Royal Plowing Ceremony will be performed on the Sanam Luang parade ground near the Royal Palace in Bangkok. Not unlike our Groundhog Day, the observance centers on a pair of oxen that predict the weather and the country's financial future. In the presence of royalty (lately it's been the crown prince instead of his 79-year-old father, King Bhumibol Adulyadej), the ancient ritual begins at an auspicious time determined by Hindu priests robed in gold and white silk who present the oxen with a choice of seven trays of food and potables. As the animals graze on rice, corn, green beans, water, grass, sesame seeds or whiskey, the priests interpret their selections to predict rainfall, crop success, the economy and foreign trade. Grains foretell a good harvest, water signifies an abundance of meat, green beans portend plentiful fruit, and a slurp of whiskey is good news for the economy.
With the forecast made, onlookers scramble to collect scattered ceremonial rice seeds consecrated by royalty to usher in the planting season. Get there early to get a good viewing spot and “bring snacks, drinking water, hats and sunscreen,” said Lyle Sinrod Walter, a native Washingtonian who has lived in Bangkok for six years.
The second full moon of May (the 31st this year) is Visakha Bucha, the holiest of the Buddhist holidays, celebrating the date Buddha was born, attained enlightenment and entered nirvana. To honor that trifecta of religious achievement, festivities are held all over the country. Bangkok and the northern city of Chiang Mai offer two of the most profound and popular celebrations. The week before the holiday, the Grand Palace in Bangkok is host to a televised flower-strewn procession bearing a Buddha relic into Sanam Luang park where the masses (1.2 million visitors in 2005) pay their respects.
By the shine of the full moon, you'll want to be in Chiang Mai, the ancient capital of the Northern Kingdom and home to the temple of Doi Suthep, perched more than a mile above the city. On Visakha Bucha, shortly after sunset, a procession of monks carries lanterns and candles on a seven-and-a-half mile pilgrimage to the top and circumambulates the major stupa three times. The celebration is more spiritual than sanuk, but it's an opportunity to experience one of the country's holiest rites.
A daytime visit to Doi Suthep can be equally inspiring. The views of the city and surrounding countryside make for great pictures. Followers walk the perimeter spinning prayer wheels and sending their wishes into the universe, and you can receive a blessing from one of the many monks at practice. If you're up to it, climb the 300-step Naga staircase to the top, but newly rebuilt cable cars are a less strenuous option.
If Songkran is comparable to St. Patrick's Day and the oxen in Sanam Luang to Punxsutawney Phil, then the late June festival of Phi Ta Khon is Thai Halloween. Locals in the Loei Province near Laos hide under frightening masks made from coconut leaves and rice husks and make mischief in a loud and colorful procession through the small district of Dan Sai. Like Halloween, the Ghost Festival has religious-folkloric origins. Buddhist celebrants honor Vessendara, an incarnation of the Buddha whose return to his hometown, the tale goes, was celebrated by the village spirits and ghosts awakened by the party noise. The belief in village spirits comes from older traditions celebrated by the Isaan minority who make their home in this mountainous province. The festival kicks off the rainmaking celebrations that include the Isaan Rocket Festival in the town of Yasothon, where locals shoot off occasionally dangerous (sometimes even lethal) homemade rockets.
Every October (Oct. 11 to 19 this year) the resort island of Phuket sheds its bikini-blanketed reputation to hold one of the most bizarre and dramatic celebrations on the Thai calendar. On the sixth day of the Vegetarian Festival, tens of thousands of gawkers come to watch a procession of self-impaled celebrants. Spirit mediums meditate to reach a trancelike state so they can pierce their mouths and cheeks with all manner of objects: swords, picks, branches and even unusual household items (a standing fan in the case of one brave young man). Once adorned, they process through the winding streets, occasionally falling into a reverie or stopping at colorful homemade altars to accept offerings. Part of a 10-day strict abstinence from meat eating among Thais of Chinese descent, the self-piercing is said to bring spiritual cleansing and “make merit” with the nine gods invoked during the festival. As if they haven't already proved their mettle, the mediums finish by walking over beds of hot coals.
Thais are proud of their country's long, peaceful history, free of colonization or foreign occupation. But there was a famous blight on that record when, during World War II, as many as 100,000 Asian laborers and 16,000 Allied prisoners of war died building a nearly 260-mile “death railway” through Thailand under force by the Japanese Army. If you've seen “The Bridge on the River Kwai,” you know that the bridge in question was blown up, an event that happened in the northern town of Kanchanaburi (though the film was shot in Sri Lanka, and Allied bombers, not the P.O.W.s, took it out in real life). Though the town is home to a bleak and transfixing museum depicting the war's local atrocities (Jeath War Museum), the commemoration of the tragedy has been transformed into an annual festival.
Usually in the first week of December (the bridge was destroyed in April 1945, but the weather is better in December), the town sets up a large fairground filled with food vendors, amusement park rides, freak shows and carnival games. Next to the bridge that has long stood in the destroyed bridge's wake, there is a nightly dramatic retelling of the Japanese mistreatment of slave labor (in Thai), a light show and fireworks, and a re-enactment of the bridge's destruction, complete with strobe lights, piped-in locomotion sounds and a fake train.
Though the carnival is preceded by more serious tributes, you'll find few Westerners here, in part because it's off the tourist track but also because the festival seems to make light of a tragedy in which many American, British and Australian soldiers lost their lives.
The festival is also a draw for the local disco barges that float along the Kwai. I stayed in one of the kitschy yet spartan floating bungalows during the Bridge festivities and would have been lulled to sleep by the water save for the beats of karaoke pop songs late into the night.
By DAVID G. ALLAN
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